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The small fishing villages encompassing the southern most Pacific side of the Nicoya Peninsula are generally known as Malpais and have in recent years become a prime destination for eco and surf tourism alike. Geographically, the area is known as a tropical-dry forest and essentially has two seasons, wet and dry, from May to November and December to April respectively. Tropical-dry forests are rare in the world and enjoy a wide range of foliage and wildlife, the ecosystem here being no different. Cabo Blanco National Reserve is located only 3-kilometers to the south and old growth forests adorn the coastline, eventually cascading into pristine white sand beaches with scattered reef points, accentuating the views and sea-life habitats. Visitors enjoy a wide range of activities including surfing, sport fishing, hiking, horse back riding, or simply relaxing in a hammock, taking it all in, the troubles of home miraculously having disappeared upon arrival to such a unique destination. Immigrants have been congregating here consistently during the last few years, thus integrating a rich and diverse culture to this Latin America paradise. There is no shortage of international cuisine, of course specializing in locally caught sea-food; the shops off the main road boast local artisan creations with unique style and presentation. Malpais, Playa Carmen, Santa Teresa, Play Hermosa, and Manzanillo blend together being connected by one dirt road, though each area has its own special qualities that will continue to entice the senses of world travelers for years to come.
Malpais
The tiny fishing village located on the south western tip of the Nicoya Peninsula is Malpais. The name literally means “bad country” or “bad lands” which is an obvious misnomer for fact that this is one of the most beautiful places on Earth. The genesis of the name has led to some speculation though one account that seems reliable says that it came from the Chorotega Indian word “mah pah” for a smooth stone that was easily drawn on for artistic purposes. At any rate, the mostly residential area that comprises Malpais enjoys a quiet atmosphere with a few hotels and restaurants (Mary’s notably) scattered throughout. The beaches here tend to be steeper with less sand and at low tides, beautiful reefs are exposed revealing decadent tide pools to lounge in and relax. The family who opened Mar Azul was one of the first here and some of the original inhabitants will wax nostalgic about the only hang out spot and restaurant around. All this before electricity was brought here. Even with its unassuming nature, local’s country wide knows of the magic that this small beach community contains.
Playa Carmen
Playa Carmen has just recently started to appear on maps of the region and is becoming the de facto metropolis of the area with the completion of a Commercial Center covering over 1-1/4 acres with shops, cafés, a hotel, apartments, a much needed bank, other businesses, and communal areas all providing services and bridging the gap between here and Cóbano for the acquisition of basic needs. The beach itself is popular for beginning surfers due to a consistent sandy bottom and an inside break that is soft and forgiving. More experienced surfers will relish in the normally well formed sand-bars producing good shaped waves and the consistency of the outer break. A super market, surf shops, restaurants (including a great pizza place right on the beach at Carmen and an Argentinean barbeque joint that is legendary), local sodas, of course the beautiful beach, and a.t.v. rental specialists all packed into a less than 1km strip make Playa Carmen a must see destination.
Santa Teresa
Heading north from Playa Carmen past the 1st bridge for Quebrada Carmen, one finds themselves entering Santa Teresa. This section stretches for about 6km on the same one dirt road all the way from Sunset Reef Hotel at the southern end of Malpais. Santa Teresa earned its spot on the map strictly from the waves. Surf tourism has dominated Santa Teresa and this is prevalent by the sheer volume of people walking around with surfboards and every hostel and soda seems to have “surf” in the name. The wave itself is different than Carmen allowing even more possibilities and within those 6-kilometers there are myriad types of breaks. There have been some nice newly finished hotels and restaurants helping to solidify Santa Teresa’s reputation as a world renowned surf-travel destination.
Playa Hermosa
When spoken in context this Playa Hermosa is often mistaken for its more famous namesake south of Jacó. Continuing north from Santa Teresa, past the famous Flor Blanca Hotel, the beautiful rock anomaly known as Peñon de Ario is generally considered the point of reference for the beginning of Playa Hermosa. This first stretch of beach at low tide is home to some of the most beautiful and accessible tide pools in the area. Still north the beach opens up and you find yourself on a truly special stretch of sand. The lack of services and generally low population density gives the feeling of privacy and that you are privy to some secret that the rest of the world just has no idea about. The areas only private school resides here also and has seen some expansion in the recent year. With the advent of a new high-end villa style family resort opening and a beautifully designed yoga retreat center in the works, as well as high end homes on the drawing board and already completed, Playa Hermosa is gaining the reputation of being the Beverly Hills of the Southern Nicoya Peninsula.
Manzanillo
Traveling still north of Playa Hermosa on one of the most beautiful stretches of coastal dirt road anywhere you eventually find yourself at Atardecer Dorado looking out into the calm sea protected by outer reefs with fishermen getting their boats ready for the night fishing of Snapper and Corvina, the afternoon sun glistening off the wind textured water, you all of a sudden feel like some ceviche and an ice gold beer. Manzanillo is a tranquil and almost frighteningly quiet fishing village that is the true epitome of paradise. The road may end at the cemetery just a few hundred meters north of Atardecer, but the beach just keeps extending north all the way to Coyote with outer reefs protecting the launch of all the fishing boats. Turning right from the restaurant you end up in Bello Horizante, a quaint little town which is primarily built from one soccer field and a few stores. This place is home; however, to Langosta Paraiso and if you feel like devouring whole lobster for about $13 then make the effort to stop by and get to know the family who runs the joint. They are great people like most of whom you will meet in Manzanillo.
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